Original Letter to the Editor by Emil den Dulk

The article “A Sense of Perspective” (Wine Magazine October refers)

Christian Eedes is trying to make a case of why a 3 star rating should be considered a good rating in Wine Magazine.

A couple of points come to mind and as a producer I have to stick my neck out and take on the press at my peril. Hopefully after this letter other producers can come up with similar examples.

First of all for South African wines to do well in the international market we must follow the marketing strategy of over delivering in the value for money arena. Overseas consumers and the trade read Wine magazine and to show that 92% of SA red wines and 91% S A White Wines are rated 3½ Stars or less is a sad indictment for Brand South Africa. As I understand 3 stars equate to 75 points and a 75 point wine does not crack it anywhere in the world.

If one looks at the overseas press the picture is a little different and they view our wines as much better than what Wine Magazine portrays.

Wine Magazine seems to have had a change in policy in the latter half of 2004. I get the feeling that they really wanted to be very strict and changed their policy accordingly. I say this because in our case our wines were rated 4 and 4½ stars in Wine Magazine until June 2004 and thereafter our quality of wine “went down” to 3 stars and even 2½ stars in subsequent vintages. Reading your ratings history, this statement holds water for most wines rated since then.

Having said this, our ratings remained constant and even improved in the overseas press ranging between 89 and 92 points for Fusion V. In my mind 90 and 92 points equates to 4½ or even 5 star ratings.

What went wrong Wine Magazine? Why would your ratings come down? Is it because your panels vary from tasting to tasting or is it that the panel has a lack of exposure to international trends? Or are you just wanting to be tough?

Even more disconcerting is the variance in ratings of the same wine tasted within months from one another. How can a wine be rated 4 stars in February 2008 and then get a rating of 2½ stars months later, and another wine rated 2½ stars in February 2002 and 4½ stars in September 2002 and 3 different ratings in between. Yes you can explain; bottle variance; aging etc. etc, but why would this trend repeat itself year after year? Maybe the readers would like to check out Wine Magazine ratings of their favourite tipple at: http://www.winemag.co.za/content/online/ratings/ratings.asp

Look at the table below. Your panels believe our “Z” wine is worth only one star (according to your ratings acceptable/ordinary) but the rest of world thinks 90 points and Platter 4 stars. Really, something is wrong in your philosophy or competency!

The constant performers in the ratings seem to be Platter; Wine Spectator; Wine Enthusiast and Decanter etc. Somewhere something is seriously wrong at Wine Magazine!

Wine Magazine is doing nothing to promote South Africa on the world wine map with these kind of ratings. They are doing more harm than good to South Africa’s image internationally.

Below is a summary as Wine Magazine kindly supplied from their website and comparisons of other publications to show the wide discrepancies in the case of our wines.

Emil den Dulk
Stellenbosch

 

Letter to the Editor from Myles Ruck (Unedited)

Dear Mr. Eedes,

Your emotional and illogical response to a perfectly reasonable letter from Emil den Dulk on what, after all, is a very subjective matter, cannot be allowed to go unchecked.

Emotional? You state " It seems that De Toren won't settle for anything less than 4 stars...". Huh? Where did you get that from? Further on you state "Though De Toren Fusion V has never been rated 5 Stars in WINE magazine or 95-plus in any overseas wine publication..". I'm not sure what the point behind this gratuitous piece of information is - no-one claimed that it had, or that it should be. Den Dulk voiced an expectation that wines above 90 should, in his view and based on the logic he used in his letter, equate to 4,5 or even 5 stars. And your final comment "and it must be said that the standard of wine does not rise and fall according to the standard of De Toren". On what basis do you justify such an emotional, personal attack on the estate? Nowhere in den Dulk's letter does he remotely infer this and this kind of comment is unbecoming for an editor of a professional publication.

Illogical? I'll illustrate just three instances. You compare the scoring system of WINE magazine and Wine Spectator as follows:

Wine Spectator                                              WINE magazine

50 - 74 points                                                  0 Stars

75 - 79 points                                                  1 Star

80 - 84 points                                                   3 Stars

85 - 89 points                                                   3,5 Stars

90 - 94 points                                                   4 to 4,5 Stars

95 - 100 points                                                 5 Stars

Correct me if I'm wrong, but in your January 2009 magazine on page 86, your rating system very clearly indicates rating categories of 2 Stars and 2,5 Stars. How convenient for your response that these are overlooked above. Or is your comparison just plain wrong ???

Some more great logic: You later admit that De Toren Fusion V 2005 vintage rated 4 Stars in February 2008 and sank to 2,5 Stars a mere SEVEN months later. You then feebly try and explain why a wine, in your rating terminology, has gone from being an excellent wine of distinction to less than good and and slightly above average in those seven months as follows: " it is possible for a wine to rate a LITTLE (my capitals) differently depending on who's rating it and when, or depending on the condition of the sample - it is THE UNDERSTANDABLE NATURE of ratings that a wine can vary by between 1 and 1,5 Stars, even within 12 months. A little different - how do define a lot?? And aside from the fact that the time period between ratings is closer to 6 than 12 months, I query just whom this is understandable to, other than someone trying to make an excuse for a monumental discrepancy/error??

And finally, by way of example, den Dulk refers to the 2004 and 2006 vintages of De Toren Z which your esteemed panel of experts found ordinary but acceptable ( how very nice of them!)and very generously gave 1 Star. While you try and defend against Platter's rating - where you indicate that the halo effect and a single ( presumably David Swingler is qualified) taster account for the substantial difference between the two ratings, you conveniently ignore the overseas ratings of Steven Tanzer and Wine Enthusiast - I mean really, what do they know that your illustrious panel of 5 experts doesn't ??

Mr. Eedes, your vitriolic response to Emil den Dulk's letter in my opinion discredits both you and the magazine you edit. Rather, it serves to confirm a fairly widely held view that so-called expert wine tasters are nothing more than self-opinionated snobs with little or no ability to ever admit that maybe, just maybe, they can get it wrong from time to time.

Regards,
Myles Ruck

Follow up letter that will not be published

Dear Christian

As I said, never fight with someone with free ink. You said you'd be publishing my letter ,along with your reply, in the March magazine. What you didn't say is that you'd be cowardly publishing an edited version ( entirely in your favour) with excerpts that suited you and, quite frankly, the response to those points chosen by yourself failed spectactularly to answer any of those issues raised.

It is clear that you believe yourself to be above criticism - a bad attitude for an editor. A pity you were so spineless as not to publish the letter in full as you would have had to answer some unpleasant commentary on yourself.

Happily my subscription expires soon and so I will be able to spend my money on something far more worthwhile thereafter - like perhaps a bottle of De Toren Z - or some of the delightful wine that Mr. Peens supplies. You owe Mr. Den Dulk an apology still.

You are a disappointment - what happened to your predecessor - far more objective and less self-opinionated ??

Myles Ruck.

P.S. And please don't publish this at all as I have no idea which selective bits you'll choose to leave out.

P.P.S. To those copied, it is insightful to look at how the letter was edited to suit the needs of the editor. See the March issue versus the letter below. Makes you wonder whether you can believe anything this guy writes. To contextualise it, have a look at his original response to the letter from Emil in the January edition of this illustrious publication - if you still buy it

 

De Toren Private Cellar
Website: www.de-toren.com
e-mail us: info@de-toren.co.za
phone us: +27 (0)21 881 3119
fax us: +27 (0)21 881 3335

De Toren Private Cellar
Polkadraai Road,
Stellenbosch,
South Africa