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March 2009 |
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A SENSE OF PERSPECTIVE |
Many of you might have read our letter to the editor in the local WINE magazine (January 2008).
The letter was about the negative impressions being created by WINE for South African wine...
Read more... |
THE 2009 HARVEST IS UPON US |
About 4 years ago we moved the sorting of the incoming grapes to a platform outside the cellar. We have since made numerous further improvements.
Read more... |
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OUR VITICULTURIST IS OFF TO CHILE AND ARGENTINA |
Always eager to learn, Ernest Manuel has decided to visit Chile and Argentina to see how they cultivate grapes compared to South Africa
Read more... |
ROXETTE DISCOVERS DE TOREN. |
Having had dinner at the fabulous Roundhouse Restaurant in Cape Town, Per and Marie were introduced to the 1999 De Toren Fusion V and enjoyed it so much that they just had to visit the estate.
Read more... |
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THE SECRETS OF OUR SUCCESS (Part 2) |
In our last newsletter we discussed our attempts to achieve optimal balance in our vineyards. Now we turn our attention to Free Energy!
There are two free energies known to us.
Read more... |
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MATHEW JUKES PUTS DE TOREN FUSION V IN HIS TOP 50 WINES IN THE UK |
The latest is a Top 50 from Matthew Jukes
Read more... |
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THE SOUTH AFRICAN WINE INDUSTRY IS 350 YEARS OLD |
Stellenbosch Celebrating 350 years
Read more... |
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ORDERING WINE |
If you would
like to order some wine, please
click here
to view our new online order form |
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A SENSE OF PERSPECTIVE
Many of you might have read our letter to the editor in the local WINE magazine (January 2008).
The letter was about the negative impressions being created by WINE for South African wine in that 91% of all wines produced in South Africa are rated 3½ stars or less and that these ratings equate to 75 points or less on the 100 point scale. This leaves the impression that South African wines just do not cut it internationally. Furthermore we criticized the inconsistency of ratings produced by this magazine.
WINE responded by attacking our brand and stating that that “ De Toren would not settle for anything less than 4 Stars…….” and publishing their comparison to the WINE SPECTATOR rating system. WINE took the view that we were complaining about the ratings of our brand and did not see the fact that we only used the statistics on our brand to illustrate our argument. They also edited our letter to leave out key points and failed to print the web link where readers may view the rating history on their favourite tipple.
http://www.winemag.co.za/content/online/ratings/ratings.asp
What has happened since?
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WINE has put out a poll to establish whether they should be rating on the 100 point system or remain with their star ratings.
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They have printed conflicting comparisons of the star rating system to the 100 point system.
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It appears that they have chosen to ignore the problem with inconsistency in their ratings.
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An angry response from Myles Ruck who’s letter was printed in the March issue. (To see the letter and further response
click here)
As far as “ De Toren would not settle for anything less than 4 Stars…….”:
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De Toren never submits wines to be rated in South Africa. We noticed on the front page of the February issue of WINE that they rated the 2006 De Toren Fusion V - 4 Stars which according to their latest comparison chart is now 90 – 94 points on the 100 points scale.
Christian Eedes, Editor of WINE deviously edited the letter I sent to him and also the letter from Myles Ruck. If you want to read the unedited versions please
click here.
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DE TOREN Fusion V 07 BOTTLED
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With the 2006 vintage sold out, there is going to be a drought for the next4 months in South Africa. The 07 Vintage of Fusion V will be released only in November of this year.
Those loyal customers who got in first last year and ordered en primeur got their supplies.
TASTING NOTES:
A very complex flavor profile of cloves, black fruit, cinnamon and liquorice on the approach gives way to rich creaminess with a long lingering aftertaste. The fusion of acidity, ripe tannin structure and complexity derived from the five varieties, combines to bring out the best in this stunning vintage. The Cabernet Sauvignon dominance in this Bordeaux style blend will see the wine age way into the future.
BLEND MAKE UP:
Cabernet Sauvignon 55%; Merlot 10%; Malbec 15%; Cabernet Franc 15%; Petit Verdot 5%
ANALYSIS
Alcohol 14.5% vol; Sugar 2.1 g/l; Acidity 5.85 g/l; pH 3.56
PRODUCTION:
Production was again limited to:
3600 x 12 cases x 750 ml; 1050 btls x 1,5L Magnums; 4320 btls x 375ml.
THE 2009 HARVEST IS UPON US
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About 4 years ago we moved the sorting of the incoming grapes to a platform outside the cellar. This saw a 4 meter bunch sorting table and we de-stemmed straight into our bins on wheels. Although we removed many unwanted items like snails, leaves, sticks and unwanted bunches, we could not remove any bits of stems or green berries that might have hid inside the bunches.
To counter this we installed a single berry vibrating sorting table in 2005 and immediately saw an improvement in our wine quality.
To further improve we have now installed a vibrating bunch sorter. This machine lets the bunches pass over a grid and all small particles like small green berries, raisin berries, insects and soil will now be vibrated out of the bunches and fall through a grid.
The bunches then move onto an improved bunch sorting table and then up the conveyor to the de-stemmer. This conveyor has also been improved to feed the de-stemmer at more controlled intervals and batches, resulting in a “softer” de-stemming process.
We have also created a whole new platform for waiting grapes to be stored under a netted port with misters to reduce the temperature while grapes wait for de-stemming. Remember we finish harvesting at 10:00am while the grapes are still very cool with overnight temperatures.
We also have 2 interns working the harvest with us this year. Charles was one of the top students last year and has joined us as assistant winemaker. Charles plans to do his masters degree next year on a subject that we will still decide on. His current qualifications are: University of Stellenbosch with a degree in viticulture and oenology (BSc. Agric- Viticulture and Oenology). As post- graduate (Hons.) BSc. Agric (Viticulture) with distinction.
Kristen completed her oenology and viticulture degree at the University of Stellenbosch in 2008. She says “
The scientific approach and precise methodology that De Toren implements on all of the aspects involved in producing Fusion V and “Z”, are wonderful building blocks for my development.”
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The layout of sorting tables last year |
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Charles Williams |
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Krirsten Basson |
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Our Viticulturist is off to Chile and Argentina
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Always eager to learn, Ernest Manuel has decided to visit Chile and Argentina to see how they cultivate grapes compared to South Africa.
Chile and Argentina are two diverse countries as far as soils, climate and cultivars are concerned, but both countries have made great strides in the quality of their wines and growth in market share. We also find diverse climates and soil types in South Africa and the objectives are to study what practices were put in place on the diverse soil types in those countries and what helped to dramatically increase quality.
There are a whole host of practices that will be looked at:
from canopy design to irrigation, sorting tables
and determination of ripeness and more.
This falls all in our stride to perfection. Let’s see how much this study will add to the quality of our wines!
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Roxette discovers De Toren
Having had dinner at the fabulous
Roundhouse Restaurant in Cape Town, Per and Marie were introduced to the 1999 De Toren Fusion V and enjoyed it so much that they just had to visit the estate.
It all started in Liverpool, right after the second World War. The story of The Beatles, that is. Roxette, however, came out of Sweden in the late ‘80s. Roxette is Marie Fredriksson and Per Gessle, and their game is pop. With 31 chart-busting pop-singles, we feel assured enough to say that few play it better.
Marie and Per met in the laid-back West Coast town Halmstad in the late ‘70s, but individual success prevented them from "doing something together" in the following years. Per's former power-pop group Gyllene Tider is still one of Sweden's most loved acts, and Marie's impressive solo career gave her an equally solid platform. In 1986, they were ready to merge their creative forces. Per had the songs, Marie the voice. Together, they argued, they would be a match made in heaven. Nineteen years later, Roxette is still flying high.
Albie Koch our wine maker is a great follower of their music and therefore volunteered for the tasting. Needless to say the Albie had an absolute ball and we have great new
fans of De Toren in Sweden.
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Estelle Mostert, our Office Manager with the group from Roxette |
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THE SECRETS OF OUR SUCCESS (Part 2)
Free Energy…………
In
our last newsletter we discussed our attempts to achieve
optimal balance in our vineyards. Now we turn our
attention to Free Energy! There are two free energies
known to us.
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Sunlight.
By optimizing photosynthesis the vine has the ability to ripen the berries to its fullest potential. With Richard Smart’s publication “Sunlight into Wine” as our manual, we manage our canopies to their fullest potential. Understanding the ratio between healed, soil potential and canopy, we can ensure that our berries reach optimal phenolic ripeness. We make extensive use of phenolic ripeness measurements to ensure full ripe tannins in our wine. Here we use the analytical services of Dr Andy Roediger who now has obtained his Cape Wine Masters qualification with his thesis on “Phenolic ripeness in South Africa”.
Essentially phenolic ripeness assesses the quality of the grapes which is a culmination in the grape variety as well as the suitability of the variety to the terroir that it is planted in. The quality is monitored by the amount of anthocyanins present in the grapes and thus it is not advisable to harvest grapes at a stage when the anthocyanins are increasing, as this means that the quality of the resultant wine is still increasing. In addition the laboratory extraction percentage of the measured anthocyanins is a very important factor in determining the ripeness of a grape. Further measurements that are conducted are the amounts of tannin present in the grape which is subdivided into seed and skin tannins. Additional information that is provided is the contribution of tannins to the total phenolic compounds as well as tannin to anthocyanin ratio. This information is important in stabilising the polymeric colour compounds in the wine, and thus preventing early bottle precipitation. Finally to further quantify the quality of the grapes a total phenolic index (TPI) is also reported on.
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Facing the Ocean. The second free energy available to us is the cool sea breeze that blows through our vineyards rows. By planting our rows facing the ocean and at the correct slope we ensure a homogeneous micro climate throughout the vineyard. This in turn guarantees that all the bunches ripen simultaneously.
On a macro scale this daily sea breeze ensures cooler afternoon temperatures and blesses us with dew at night. This moderate climate ensures a long and even ripening of our berries giving them
the complexity and deep color our wines are renowned for. Therefore design in vineyard is critically important in getting the best out of your vines.
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Sunlight into our vines |
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Lab Analysis to establish anthocyanin levels |
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Our vineyard rows facing the ocean |
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A Members-Only, Weekly Publication
De Toren
Fusion V Stellenbosch 2006
90 points | $45 | 700 cases imported | Red
Ripe and polished, with nice density to the black currant and fig fruit, which is layered with bittersweet cocoa, tobacco and black licorice notes. The fleshy, integrated finish has solid length. Drink now through 2010.—J.M.
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Mathew Jukes puts De Toren Fusion V in his top 50 wines in the U K
The latest is a Top 50 from
Matthew Jukes, wine writer for the Daily Mail, who was one of the most conscientious tasters at Cape Wine 2008. But this is no laundry list – the picks are idiosyncratic (albeit expensive, ranging from £6 to £50) and there are some killer tasting notes. Whites dominate: seven each to Chenin and Sauvignon Blanc; six Chardonnays and five white blends.
De Toren Fusion V, Stellenbosch, 2006, £23.00
"The bravest Fusion V ever, with lashings of tannin and gobs of structure. This is a brazen wine and it deserves to be feared and adored in equal measure. It will thrill you for years to come."
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The South African Wine Industry is 350 years old
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Stellenbosch Celebrating 350 years |
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Jan van Riebeeck arriving in the Cape in 1652 |
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It was in 1652 that Jan van Riebeeck landed at the Cape, tasked with establishing a garden to provision VOC ships. The first vines arrived in 1655 imported from France, the Rhineland and Spain. Naturally, these were planted in the Company's Gardens, six acres of which survive as a botanical garden in central Cape Town to this day. Jan van Riebeeck's diary entry of February 2, 1659 reads: "today, praise be to God, wine was pressed for the first time from Cape grapes, and the new must was tasted fresh from the vat."
Van Riebeeck also planted 1,000 vines at his own farm, Boscheuvel, while his successor, Simon van der Stel, staked his personal claim on the lower slopes of the Steenbergen in Constantia. Once these Governors showed that successful large-scale grape cultivation was possible, other free farmers followed suit. Until then grapes had served primarily as adornments for verandahs and stables!
This was the origin of the famously historic sweet wines of Constantia. Constantia vintners placed a premium on quality rather than quantity, attending their vines with care, and thus differentiating them from the somewhat rough and rudimentary wines produced elsewhere.
However, the release of Nelson Mandela in 1990 and the rapid - and peaceful - transition to democracy paved the way for sustained growth in the modern era. Along with the establishment of a dedicated export marketing body (Wines of South Africa), a new generation of young winemakers were able to work and travel abroad, returning with fresh skills, techniques and ideas.
International exposure and dramatic growth in sales led to a change in style of South African wine as well as a greater commitment to improving quality. This has been reflected in the slew of international awards claimed by South African wines since democratic elections were first held in 1994, a remarkable turnaround and achievement for an industry which is simultaneously 350 - and 15 - years old.
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Men are like fine wine...
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Men are like fine wine. They all start out like grapes, and it's a woman's job to stomp on them and keep them in the dark until they mature into something you'd want to have dinner with.
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